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Aerostar-unlimited message board -> Maintenance Forums -> Which ignition components are best
Post InfoTOPIC: Which ignition components are best
Bear River
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Posts: 14
Date: Feb 25, 2009
Which ignition components are best


There are a lot of different types of spark plugs out there.  Standard, single platinum, double platinum, twin tip, quad tip, side fire, iridium, etc.  With all these choices, it can be difficult to know which one is right for our beloved Aerostar.  Similar story in wires, you have the standard cheap store brands, higher priced brands, performance wires, mag core, etc.  This choice gets compounded by the fact that some of the plugs on the Aerostar are difficult to get to, making it that much more important to get the right part so that you do not end up doing the job twice.

Ford engineers knew what they were doing when they engineered their engines.  They have designed the original equipment spark plugs to have the proper heat dissipation, have certain durability features, and to be made from certain materials.  They have designed them to take up no more than a certain volume in the chamber.  So Let me proceed with what is wrong with many of the designs and why they should not be used.

Standard Plugs:
The only standard plug that should be used on an Aerostar is the Motorcraft part, or the Autolite equivalent.  Autolite manufactures the original Motorcraft plugs.  Even so, the standard plugs should only be used on engines that originally came with them.  If in doubt, check the owners manual.  The part number will contain a P is it is a platinum type plug, and a PP i it is  double platinum plug.  Otherwise it will be a standard plug.

Single Platinum:
Single platinum plugs contain platinum on either the tip or the electrode.  Again, you should only use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs because they have been designed to have the proper heat range.  The 4.0L engine uses a waste spark type system and comes from the factory with two different types of spark plugs, one one bank they are all platinum electrodes, and on the other bank they are platinum tips.  Later 3.0L engines with coil pack ignition also use the same type setup.  In these engines, you can, and are advised to use double platinum Motorcraft or Autolite plugs.  The Autolite number to use on the distributor equipped models is #AP765

Double Platinum:
These plugs are recommended for models that use coil pack ignition.  Because they are platinum plated on both the tip and the electrode, they can handle the flow of current in either direction.  This way you do not need separate types of plugs for each bank.  Use these plugs on all 4.0L engines, and later 3.0L engines as well.  They can be used on distributor based ignition, but offer no benefits.  Use only Motorcraft or Autolite brands, as others tend to have and incorrect heat range, which can cause misfiring, preignition, decreased plug life, and decreased performance.  The Autolite number to use is APP765

Twin tip:
These plugs stray from the original design and are not recommended.  The argument for these types of plugs is better spark presentation.  However, no twin tip plugs on the market today have been engineered to meet Fords strict requirements for the engines used in the Aerostar.  Also, they do not cause the spark to split or produce two sparks.  Electricity will always follow the part of least resistance, which means that the spark will jump to one tip or the other.  Another problem with this type of plug is that the extra electrode takes up more space in the combustion chamber.  This causes a slight increase in compression and that in turn causes predetonation.  Only use this type of plug in engines that are designed for twin tip plugs.

Quad Tip:
Read twin tip above.  This has the same problems only more so.  Only use this type of plug in an engine that was designed for them

Side Fire:
This type of tip claims to have better spark presentation.  However, it moves the location of the spark.  Ford engineered the spark to take place in a specific part of the combustion chamber so that the flame front spreads evenly, and delivers the best performance and efficiency.  Also, this type of plug has the same issues as other non-OE plugs, in that the heat range is wrong, and the amount of volume they displace in the chamber may be different.  To this date, they are no side firing plugs that have been designed to meet Fords requirements for the engines used in the Aerostar.

Iridium:
Iridium conducts heat and electricity better than platinum.  It is also more durable that platinum.  These factors do make them more desireable for use in a spark plug.  Iridium plugs are designed to last far longer than platinum plugs, and are sometimes refered to as lifetime plugs.  However, one much make sure that these plugs are truly equivalent to platinum plugs they are replacing.  And other factors must be taken into consideration.  For one, these plugs, like others, can seize in the plug holes if left in there too long.  If a plug is designed to last over 200,000 miles, and it is left there for that long, replacing it may be very difficult.  If the plug is the wrong heat range, or displaces too much chamber volume, it can cause detonation and pinging.  The only Iridium plug that should be used is Autolite part# XP105

As for plug wires, use only Motorcraft or the Autolite OE equivalent.  All others are a gamble at best.  Ford engineered the plugs to have a specific resistance range, induction qualities, and suppression with the proper heat and vibration resistance.  Most wires break down rapidly from the high temperatures found under the hood of the Aerostar.  Most wires also deteriorate rapidly from the high voltage that Ford uses.  Performance wires often do not have the proper suppression and induction properties, which can cause interference problems.  Mag-core wires are the best of both worlds, but at a hefty price, and the low resistance they use can cause rapid plug wear, and can cause the plug tips to overheat, which in turn causes detonation and pinging.  It can also put extra stress on the coil(s).


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'94 Aerostar 4.0L XLT AWD 192,000
overbuilt A4LD trans with shift kit
Custom catback exhaust with Fullblown 50 series muffler
www.bearriverconverters.com
FORDBOYpete



Moderator


Posts: 20
Date: Mar 3, 2009

I Concur 100% with Bear River's post. 
 
 Some people avoid pruchasing & using OEM Branded parts as they think OEM parts are too expensive. But I will tell you all, I can't get towed home for the price of Genuine Parts for a tune up, or most other repairs for that matter. 
  As a line mechanic at dealerships I'll also tell you I can't recall how many repairs or replacements I did caused by people doing their own repairs, mostly doing them correctly, but failing to use parts that complied or met OEM spec's.
 
  Here's an exam
ple. My Aero takes a Motorcraft Battery with 850 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). It's a 96 month battery & costs $95.00 plus tax. I've used two & just installed my 3rd, that's in 300K miles.

   Momma's Taurus had a low end el cheapo Used Car dealer 36 mo battery & a weak starter when we bought it. Starter finally quit, so I bought a new one with an upgrade & a new Motorcraft Battery that complies with FoMoCo Specification for it.
 
My point is running weak, or underpowered batteries in a vehicle is a strain on both starter & charging system. Batteries seldom cost what I pay for OEM Spec Motorcraft  Batteries in a Aero.
Regardless, even high priced Motorcraft is less than a starter motor. So what do people think they  save if dollars they don't spend on the right Battery that meets FoMoCo spec has to go to replace a starter motor damaged by a below spec, low power 
battery which caused it to go bad ? A No Brainer I'd say.

 Batteries are cheaper than Starters, and low voltage results in longer charging cycles taxing charging system, PCM, EEC/ ECM 
faced with either low voltage, or charging system high voltage.

 What does a PCM-ECM or EEC cost compared to a Battery?  You cant by a control Module for under $200 so what is saved ? 

 Penny Wise and Pound Foolish doesn't get it done in my book.
So I say Bear River is spot on and I do what he does because I like he have learned there is a difference, and it's worth it too.

FBp  aww



-- Edited by FORDBOYpete at 22:43, 2009-03-03

-- Edited by FORDBOYpete at 22:45, 2009-03-03

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"Everybody believes in something so I believe I'll have another Beer." W.C.Fields = 20th century
dave boley



Moderator


Posts: 13
Date: Mar 4, 2009

Hi Folks,

I gotta go along with both of you guys on this stuff.  I can personally relate to Fordboy's remarks about the battery issues.  My son and I bought identical Ford diesel cargo vans , (VIN differed by one character between them), back in '93.  We used them in contract expedited freight service and put over 100 K per year on them.  They came equiped with two batteries.  One of which was an odball size that sits on the passenger side.  My batteries lasted 8 years and then started to show signs of weakness.  I was impressed by the fact that they lasted eight years especially considering they were exposed to the worst of conditions including problems with the special Leece-Neville alternators Ford used that turned out to be a real problem as the built-in regulator would start to go bad and slam the batteries with 18 to 20 volts.  Being as they were 165 amp rated alternators they could really toast a battery.  I might add that these vans were supposed to be converted to ambulances but the dealer got stuck with them.  That is why they were equiped with the big alternators.  I remember several times when this happened that you could smell the electrolyte boiling in the batteries.  Anyway, the point is that the stock Motorcraft batteries took a hell of a beating over the eight years.  About the same time my son who had moved to Atlanta replaced his with some off brand batteries he got for a few bucks less than the Motorcrafts would have cost.  Is addition to that he had to adapt the passenger side to fit the batterey he could get closest to the required physical size. Almost eight years ago when I replaced mine, you could only get the correct battery for the passenger side from a Ford dealer and mine had to be ordered. 

Years ago I made a deal with the local Ford dealer, which I have bought at least twenty new vehicles from, that if I were buying vehicles there, I needed to get a fleet discount on parts as I always did all my work other than waranty covered issues.  I know that made the cost of the batteries better than the average guy off the street would pay.  I seem to remember that the batteries were around $100.00 @ with the smaller special sized one being the higher priced one.  The batteries I bought to replace the eight year old ones are now almost eight years old and still in service.  The cheap ones my son bought lasted about two years and I believe he may have saved as much as $30.00 @ on them.  If you do the math it becomes evident that the cheap batteries cost him the equivilent of more than five times as much. 

I was so impressed with those batteries that I decided to replace the still working battery in our '95 Explorer, which we have also had since it was new, with a larger than original equipment size Motorcraft battery.  I put the older still working battery in a vehicle I sold.

I am a die hard Ford guy and will most likely stay that way.  I will not buy anything but Motorcraft batteries for anything I intend to keep for myself.

Later Folks...



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Darkside Dave
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